{"showCoverPage":false,"bookCover":{"coverDescription":"

<\/p>"},"chapters":[{"params":{"content":[{"content":{"params":{"visuals":{"fit":true,"controls":true},"playback":{"autoplay":false,"loop":false},"l10n":{"name":"Video","loading":"Video player loading...","noPlayers":"Found no video players that supports the given video format.","noSources":"Video is missing sources.","aborted":"Media playback has been aborted.","networkFailure":"Network failure.","cannotDecode":"Unable to decode media.","formatNotSupported":"Video format not supported.","mediaEncrypted":"Media encrypted.","unknownError":"Unknown error.","invalidYtId":"Invalid YouTube ID.","unknownYtId":"Unable to find video with the given YouTube ID.","restrictedYt":"The owner of this video does not allow it to be embedded."},"sources":[{"path":"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=LmiIzw7zTHY","mime":"video\/YouTube","copyright":{"license":"U"}}]},"library":"H5P.Video 1.6","metadata":{"contentType":"Video","license":"U","title":"Big Ocean Waves"},"subContentId":"4d246739-7909-4647-9323-ee2790c63b60"},"useSeparator":"auto"},{"content":{"params":{"text":"

WATCH THE ABOVE VIDEO (Access Big Ocean Waves Video Script <\/a>for review.)<\/em><\/p>\n\n

The above image slider (use arrows to move through them) shows:<\/p>\n\n

Slide 1: <\/strong>Different types of interference.<\/p>\n\n

\n\t
A: The results of the combination of a large number of waves -- we can see the result at the top, and all the components that added together underneath (slide 2 shows what that looks like in the ocean)<\/li>\n\t
B: Example of two waves constructively interfering -- notice they are \"in phase\" -- troughs align with troughs and crest with crests. Result, a bigger wave.<\/li>\n\t
C: Example of two waves destructively interfering -- notice they are \"out of phase\" -- troughs align with crests. Result: one wave takes away from the strength of the other.<\/li>\n\t
D: Example of two waves interfering with different wavelengths, thus sometimes constructive and sometimes destructive interference.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n
Slide 2: <\/strong>Results of multiple wave colliding in the ocean (see Slide 1A for the components)<\/p>\n\n
Slide 3: <\/strong>Natural wave interference around Georges Bank, a shallow bank offshore of Cape Cod.<\/p>\n\n
All these slides are from the Invitation to Oceanography textbook by Paul Pinet, Jones & Bartlett Learning<\/p>\n\n
\n
What's required for two waves to constructively interfere?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n\n
For constructive waves, do both waves have to be 'in phase' at their crest and\/or trough or can one wave be at its crest and the 2nd wave approaching its crest (producing a cumulative positive effect)? Also, do both waves need to have the same wavelength to be considered 'constructive' or 'destructive'? Lastly, does the entire new wave need to classified as constructive\/destructive or can certain points\/sections in the wave be classified as such?<\/p>\n\n
Constructive interferences does NOT require the two waves be the same wavelength or completely in phase -- even partially in phase is okay, as long as the addition of the waves at that point results in a larger wave height. And vice versa for destructive -- as long as it results in a reduced wave height. Real interference patterns are a combination of waves of multiple wavelengths and heights and hence will have both constructive AND destructive sections.<\/p>\n\n
<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.AdvancedText 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Text","license":"U","title":"Untitled Text"},"subContentId":"f53ccda0-d8b1-4feb-a956-b7c1e36bdf4d"},"useSeparator":"auto"}]},"library":"H5P.Column 1.18","subContentId":"c557aec1-a7c0-40e5-801a-3de2b8528f32","metadata":{"contentType":"Column","license":"U","title":"Interference"}},{"params":{"content":[{"content":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","alt":"Wave height around the world","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9b851a73b.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":720,"height":467},"expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"ae6ebdf0-d0bd-4a70-af6a-f0bc2e714736"},"useSeparator":"auto"},{"content":{"params":{"text":"
\n
Wave height around the world -- the above image (based on data from NOAA and NWS), shows the average wave height around the world.<\/em><\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.AdvancedText 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Text","license":"U","title":"Untitled Text"},"subContentId":"a2f8bf9d-009e-473b-a63e-637b9ae22b8b"},"useSeparator":"auto"},{"content":{"params":{"introPage":{"showIntroPage":false,"startButtonText":"Start Quiz","introduction":""},"progressType":"dots","passPercentage":100,"questions":[{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Changing winds<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Consistent winds<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Gusting winds<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Large fetch<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Small fetch<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Strong winds<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Which of the following will increase wind wave height<\/strong> in the open ocean? (Choose all that apply.)<\/em><\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"d790cf99-de88-4314-ba5c-4b861687641d"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
In the northern Indian Ocean<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Off the east coast of North America<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Off the west coast of North America<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Along the equator<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Around Antarctica<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
In which of the following locations do you see the largest waves in the world's ocean?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"255792cf-4451-45c9-9a83-3e2673bb8aa9"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Purple<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Blue<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Green<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Yellow<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Red (and white)<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
In the picture above, which color represents the largest average wave heights?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"7e6fbfe8-1a01-49bf-b571-9b17301d0032"}],"disableBackwardsNavigation":false,"randomQuestions":false,"endGame":{"showResultPage":true,"showSolutionButton":false,"showRetryButton":true,"noResultMessage":"Finished","message":"Your result:","scoreBarLabel":"You got @finals out of @totals points","overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"solutionButtonText":"Show solution","retryButtonText":"Retry","finishButtonText":"Finish","submitButtonText":"Submit","showAnimations":false,"skippable":false,"skipButtonText":"Skip video"},"texts":{"prevButton":"Previous question","nextButton":"Next question","finishButton":"Finish","submitButton":"Submit","textualProgress":"Question: @current of @total questions","jumpToQuestion":"Question %d of %total","questionLabel":"Question","readSpeakerProgress":"Question @current of @total","unansweredText":"Unanswered","answeredText":"Answered","currentQuestionText":"Current question","navigationLabel":"Questions"},"override":{"checkButton":true,"showSolutionButton":"off","retryButton":"on"}},"library":"H5P.QuestionSet 1.20","metadata":{"contentType":"Question Set","license":"U","title":"Test Your Understanding"},"subContentId":"e0d5e4c8-8dc0-43aa-95e7-fcfddce30cbf"},"useSeparator":"auto"}]},"library":"H5P.Column 1.18","subContentId":"39fcef03-3ee2-4e30-9545-7f5d3c2f9e59","metadata":{"contentType":"Column","license":"U","title":"Map: Wave height around the world"}},{"params":{"content":[{"content":{"params":{"imageSlides":[{"params":{"image":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9870c1710.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":1576,"height":1939},"alt":"DART system","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","subContentId":"8d24eff2-3606-4260-a556-3417998cb271","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"}}},"library":"H5P.ImageSlide 1.1","subContentId":"d23b92c6-72b8-4201-9634-801fd4152630","metadata":{"contentType":"Image Slide","license":"U","title":"DART system"}},{"params":{"image":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9adbcc392.png","mime":"image\/png","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":1565,"height":1106},"alt":"Dart record","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","subContentId":"473e7a78-c5a9-4148-9f73-70226cd6637a","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"}}},"library":"H5P.ImageSlide 1.1","subContentId":"42ae9a09-0874-438c-b36d-1e10ecb0298d","metadata":{"contentType":"Image Slide","license":"U","title":"Dart record"}},{"params":{"image":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","alt":"Sample tsunami path","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd99552a1d7.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":2121,"height":2090},"expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","subContentId":"cbf21392-6c5f-452d-9baf-420c266310ea","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"}}},"library":"H5P.ImageSlide 1.1","subContentId":"1d3e62e7-6f3a-4b17-b372-2b4dfd51e7d5","metadata":{"contentType":"Image Slide","license":"U","title":"Sample tsunami path"}},{"params":{"image":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9cf09b99a.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":2048,"height":1480},"alt":"Miyako City, Japan, during March 11, 2011 tsunami","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","subContentId":"bd13c0c3-b904-4a02-aab7-4f22ba3759ae","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"}}},"library":"H5P.ImageSlide 1.1","subContentId":"7b9a9428-7da9-4f29-a2ca-585ade0c0bbe","metadata":{"contentType":"Image Slide","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image Slide"}}],"aspectRatioMode":"auto","aspectRatio":{"aspectWidth":4,"aspectHeight":3},"a11y":{"nextSlide":"Next Image","prevSlide":"Previous Image","gotoSlide":"Go to image %slide"}},"library":"H5P.ImageSlider 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image Slider","license":"U","title":"Tsunami"},"subContentId":"c2dc963f-7263-47de-ad55-115ab6ae6e8d"},"useSeparator":"auto"},{"content":{"params":{"text":"
Tsunamis are giant splash waves that are created when the seafloor ruptures, either during an earthquake or a landslide. Imagine a giant pebble that falls into the ocean and creates a splash event that takes a few hours to completely dissipate. Use arrows on edges of above images to move between them in the slide show.<\/p>\n\n
\n\t
Slide 1:<\/strong> DART system -- System used to measure tsunamis in the open ocean (DART). Note two separate components: the tsunameter is anchored to seafloor and measures the pressure of water column above it. The surface buoy is separate. It is tethered to an anchor on seafloor to keep it in place and receives sound waves from the tsunameter, which it then transmits via satellite to NOAA.<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n\t
Slide 2:<\/span><\/span><\/strong> Dart record -- Time versus water depth pressure sensor from DART. As tsunami passes, the water depth above the sensor changes. Note: comma is used here instead of decimal point. 5824,52 means 5824.52 m. NOAA.<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n\t
Slide 3: <\/strong>Sample tsunami path-- Tsunami Travel Times (travel time contours every 30 mins, beginning from the Chiapas, Mexico 2012 earthquake origin time). NOAA<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n\t
Slide 4: <\/strong>Miyako City, Japan, during March 11, 2011 tsunami (Getty Image (c))<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n"},"library":"H5P.AdvancedText 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Text","license":"U","title":"Untitled Text"},"subContentId":"30aa7b81-8b5a-4069-933c-b93891527f05"},"useSeparator":"auto"},{"content":{"params":{"introPage":{"showIntroPage":false,"startButtonText":"Start Quiz","introduction":""},"progressType":"dots","passPercentage":100,"disableBackwardsNavigation":false,"randomQuestions":false,"endGame":{"showResultPage":true,"showSolutionButton":false,"showRetryButton":true,"noResultMessage":"Finished","message":"Your result:","scoreBarLabel":"You got @finals out of @totals points","overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"solutionButtonText":"Show solution","retryButtonText":"Retry","finishButtonText":"Finish","submitButtonText":"Submit","showAnimations":false,"skippable":false,"skipButtonText":"Skip video"},"texts":{"prevButton":"Previous question","nextButton":"Next question","finishButton":"Finish","submitButton":"Submit","textualProgress":"Question: @current of @total questions","jumpToQuestion":"Question %d of %total","questionLabel":"Question","readSpeakerProgress":"Question @current of @total","unansweredText":"Unanswered","answeredText":"Answered","currentQuestionText":"Current question","navigationLabel":"Questions"},"override":{"checkButton":true,"showSolutionButton":"off","retryButton":"on"},"questions":[{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
12 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
6 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
3 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1.5 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
45 minutes<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
15 to 20 minutes<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Which of the following is the average period <\/strong>of each wave that occurs during a tsunami?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"c50546b1-9a4d-42f2-9fa8-fe548a7c091e"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
200 km<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
100 km<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
50 km<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
200 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
100 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
50 m<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Which of the following is the average wavelength <\/strong>of each wave that occurs during a tsunami?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"b149c717-b89b-4c90-9292-ae26caf8c2ff"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1000 km\/hr<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
800 km\/hr<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
600 km hr<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
300 km\/hr<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
150 km\/hr<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
75 km\/hr<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Based on your answers to the previous two questions, which of the following is the average speed <\/strong>of each wave that occurs during a tsunami?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"278dbe16-a0bc-4f26-aff2-36d69b4d60d4"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false,"type":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9870c1710.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":1576,"height":1939},"alt":"DART system","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"a5f758bd-8865-440f-9372-41e3e50da169"}},"answers":[{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Changing pressure from water column<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Electrical radio wave transmission through the air<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Internet<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Sound waves<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Review the figure in the slideshow above that describes the DART system of instruments that are deployed across the oceans to detect tsunami. A sensor is placed on the seafloor where it measures pressure changes in the water column above. The sensor keeps a record of the wave and then transmits those data via sound waves to a surface buoy that transmits those data via radio waves to a satellite, which then transmits those data via radio waves across the world to various warning centers.<\/p>\n\n
What is the method for transmission used for how the tsunameter sensor reads the tsunami is happening?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"226d8650-719e-43e9-b609-aca9be9b1fda"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false,"type":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9870c1710.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":1576,"height":1939},"alt":"DART system","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"5dc6651d-ebad-4fba-8b41-9470c9303c16"}},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Changing pressure from water column<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Electrical radio wave transmission through the air<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Internet<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Sound waves<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
What is the method for transmission used for how the tsunameter sensor sends information from the bottom of the seafloor to the surface?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"b2d372b1-0f14-4e67-bca5-54146d32ffa9"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false,"type":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","alt":"Sample tsunami path","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd99552a1d7.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":2121,"height":2090},"expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"778606d9-5d5d-4585-8341-7a520e1030ef"}},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
6 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
7.5 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
9 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
12 hrs<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
15 hrs<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Review the image from slide show above that shows a map view of the Pacific Ocean and shows the travel times of a tsunami that formed after an earthquake hit Chiapas, Mexico in 2012 (location of star). Data come from tidal gauges set up in towns around the Pacific coastlines and DART instruments deployed around the ocean.<\/p>\n\n
Find the islands of Hawaii in the middle of the Northern Pacific ocean. How much time (in hours) did it take for the waves to migrate from the site of the earthquake to the eastern side of Hawaii? <\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"fe43fd55-7f45-404d-903a-960e55aa8766"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false,"type":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9adbcc392.png","mime":"image\/png","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":1565,"height":1106},"alt":"Dart record","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"da03440a-6ed1-4a67-aea9-9bd2634fd842"}},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
0.2 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
0.4 to 0.5 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1.12 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
5824.52 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
5825.64 m<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Review the figure in the slideshow above that is a copy of a graph produced at a tsunameter sensor.<\/p>\n\n
The Y-axis is water depth (note the comma in the numbers should be a period by US number systems)<\/em>; the X-axis is time.<\/p>\n\n
The complete graph represents about 20 hours of time just before and after the 2011 earthquake in Japan. You can see in the graph three different waves atop each other -- the tides, background seiche and swell, and the tsunami itself.<\/p>\n\n
Review the image and find the water depth over the sensor when the crest <\/strong>of the tsunami passed. Subtract from that the water depth over sensor when the trough of the tsunami passed. What is the result?<\/p>\n\n
Note: This graph shows the interference of different waves: chop and swell, tsunami, and tides. You can use the period of each to help separate them. We will address tsunami again in the Coastlines tutorial, where we will review how they impact the shoreline.<\/em><\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"f2d84599-12c8-4c64-ba09-5b43d62961f2"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false,"type":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd9adbcc392.png","mime":"image\/png","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":1565,"height":1106},"alt":"Dart record","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"c9d5b44d-cc15-4364-840a-088e6c6b8c3d"}},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
0.2 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
0.4 to 0.5 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1.12 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
5824.52 m<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
5825.64 m<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Reviewing the same figure as the previous question, find in the DART record the tidal wave (tides), which is the wave with the longest period. What is its height (from crest to trough)?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Untitled Multiple Choice"},"subContentId":"be004f86-34e7-4a06-af26-8cf9c5b2e560"}]},"library":"H5P.QuestionSet 1.20","metadata":{"contentType":"Question Set","license":"U","title":"Test Your Understanding"},"subContentId":"6ab5b4d2-4652-4921-85c9-1f2c1ff8a0ca"},"useSeparator":"auto"},{"content":{"params":{"text":"
How does wave interference work for tsunami and tides?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n\n
Tides never stop, so a tsunami is a wave acting upon a body of water already experiencing a tidal wave. Then on the surface of that, you might see capillary waves caused by wind patterns. That's 3 concurrent waves in the same body of water, possibly moving in the same or different directions! And there could be other combinations like that, such as tidal waves, seiches and chop in a lagoon that's almost cut off from a major body of water.<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.AdvancedText 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Text","license":"U","title":"Untitled Text"},"subContentId":"5ee46296-a94e-4daf-bc55-aa387727d1af"},"useSeparator":"auto"}]},"library":"H5P.Column 1.18","subContentId":"6d1c69a5-5a5a-4583-b5fb-cf38a779b889","metadata":{"contentType":"Column","license":"U","title":"Tsunami"}},{"params":{"content":[{"content":{"params":{"introPage":{"showIntroPage":false,"startButtonText":"Start Quiz","introduction":""},"progressType":"dots","passPercentage":100,"questions":[{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Constructive<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Destructive<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Both<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Neither<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
What type of interference causes episodic (or rogue) waves?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Interference"},"subContentId":"269e8d64-28e5-43bf-b4aa-ca570c0856dd"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Steepness = wavelength\/wave height<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Steepness = wave height\/wavelength<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Steepness = wavelength \/ period<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Steepness = period \/ wavelength<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
What is the equation for the steepness <\/strong>of a wave?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Wave steepness"},"subContentId":"a31863ea-62cc-4671-9f6b-9261c45358cb"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Become a deep-water wave<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Break<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Disappear<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Start slowing down<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
When a wave reaches maximum steepness, what does it do?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Wave steepness"},"subContentId":"acf320b0-0a2f-4143-968c-04e8ef5ea5eb"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
50<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
25<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
5<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1\/5<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1\/50<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
With a wavelength of 50 m, and a wave height is 1 m, what is the wave steepness?<\/p>\n\n
*Note: no unit here because the two units are the same and cancel. Steepness (slope) is a unitless number. It's a ratio, so it represents any unit as long as you use the same one for the top and bottom of the denominator.<\/em><\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Wave steepness"},"subContentId":"992edc99-d61f-49f6-934f-e861269e72c1"},{"params":{"media":{"type":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd7915a6474.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":303,"height":111},"alt":"Snippet of a wave","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"87c3cbe1-7ad9-4b1c-93ed-99312f5e736e"},"disableImageZooming":false},"answers":[{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
7<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
3<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1<\/div>\n"},{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1\/3<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
1\/7<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
What is the steepness <\/strong>of the wave in the image above? (You can use a ruler or make your own, where 1 unit = height).<\/p>\n\n
How can I measure steepness of any wave from a picture only?<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n
Steepness is rise over run OR vertical displacement over horizontal displacement, which for waves is height over length. That's a simple fraction and you should use the same units for numerator and demominator. Example: 1 m over 48 meters. What happens when you have the same unit on top as on the bottom? They cancel! The answer is 1\/48. (No units) It's a ratio of 1 vertical unit of displacement over 48 of the same units of displacement horizontally. That means 1 inch up and 48 inches over, or 1 finger width up and 48 finger widths over.
\n
\nTherefore, you can measure steepness from an image by using any ruler -- any unit -- one you make yourself or one you buy. Measure height; measure length. Divide.<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Wave steepness"},"subContentId":"1ed2aa30-0e50-442f-967b-057b899f041d"},{"params":{"media":{"disableImageZooming":false,"type":{"params":{"decorative":false,"contentName":"Image","file":{"path":"images\/file-64cd7915a6474.jpg","mime":"image\/jpeg","copyright":{"license":"U"},"width":303,"height":111},"alt":"Snippet of a wave","expandImage":"Expand Image","minimizeImage":"Minimize Image"},"library":"H5P.Image 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Image","license":"U","title":"Untitled Image"},"subContentId":"11e9fbfa-a457-47da-88b6-77ee8711830d"}},"answers":[{"correct":true,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
No<\/div>\n"},{"correct":false,"tipsAndFeedback":{"tip":"","chosenFeedback":"","notChosenFeedback":""},"text":"
Yes<\/div>\n"}],"overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"behaviour":{"enableRetry":true,"enableSolutionsButton":false,"enableCheckButton":true,"type":"auto","singlePoint":false,"randomAnswers":false,"showSolutionsRequiresInput":true,"confirmCheckDialog":false,"confirmRetryDialog":false,"autoCheck":false,"passPercentage":100,"showScorePoints":true},"UI":{"checkAnswerButton":"Check","submitAnswerButton":"Submit","showSolutionButton":"Show solution","tryAgainButton":"Retry","tipsLabel":"Show tip","scoreBarLabel":"You got :num out of :total points","tipAvailable":"Tip available","feedbackAvailable":"Feedback available","readFeedback":"Read feedback","wrongAnswer":"Wrong answer","correctAnswer":"Correct answer","shouldCheck":"Should have been checked","shouldNotCheck":"Should not have been checked","noInput":"Please answer before viewing the solution","a11yCheck":"Check the answers. The responses will be marked as correct, incorrect, or unanswered.","a11yShowSolution":"Show the solution. The task will be marked with its correct solution.","a11yRetry":"Retry the task. Reset all responses and start the task over again."},"confirmCheck":{"header":"Finish ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to finish ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Finish"},"confirmRetry":{"header":"Retry ?","body":"Are you sure you wish to retry ?","cancelLabel":"Cancel","confirmLabel":"Confirm"},"question":"
Based on what you've learned about the steepness of the wave above and the maximum steepness a wave can have, can the wave in the image abobve actually exist in real life?<\/p>\n"},"library":"H5P.MultiChoice 1.16","metadata":{"contentType":"Multiple Choice","license":"U","title":"Wave steepness"},"subContentId":"8d1e07bd-311c-4b59-a4fd-a987784fb0b4"}],"disableBackwardsNavigation":false,"randomQuestions":false,"endGame":{"showResultPage":true,"showSolutionButton":false,"showRetryButton":true,"noResultMessage":"Finished","message":"Your result:","scoreBarLabel":"You got @finals out of @totals points","overallFeedback":[{"from":0,"to":100}],"solutionButtonText":"Show solution","retryButtonText":"Retry","finishButtonText":"Finish","submitButtonText":"Submit","showAnimations":false,"skippable":false,"skipButtonText":"Skip video"},"texts":{"prevButton":"Previous question","nextButton":"Next question","finishButton":"Finish","submitButton":"Submit","textualProgress":"Question: @current of @total questions","jumpToQuestion":"Question %d of %total","questionLabel":"Question","readSpeakerProgress":"Question @current of @total","unansweredText":"Unanswered","answeredText":"Answered","currentQuestionText":"Current question","navigationLabel":"Questions"},"override":{"checkButton":true,"showSolutionButton":"off","retryButton":"on"}},"library":"H5P.QuestionSet 1.20","metadata":{"contentType":"Question Set","license":"U","title":"Test Your Understanding"},"subContentId":"ea60639a-3db4-44d3-88f2-f8acb01c87fe"},"useSeparator":"auto"}]},"library":"H5P.Column 1.18","subContentId":"25a720f4-c760-45f6-8e74-621de1c1c562","metadata":{"contentType":"Column","license":"U","title":"Test Your Understanding"}},{"params":{"content":[{"content":{"params":{"text":"
\n
Additional resources:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n
\n
Textbook:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n
Open Textbook: Introduction to Oceanography\u2014Paul Webb: Chapter 10: Waves<\/a><\/p>\n\n
\n
Videos and web reources:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n
\n\t1-minute YouTube video --  Rogue Wave hits beach at Pillar Point during Maverick's competition Feb 13, 2010<\/a><\/li>\n\t
1.5 minute YouTube video --  Big-Wave Surfing<\/a><\/li>\n\t
Ocean Beach Big Waves April 2012:  Photograph<\/a> |  1-minute video<\/a><\/li>\n\t
Animation:  Tsunami Animation<\/a><\/li>\n\t
Japan Tsunami 2011 -- 16,000 people dead\n\t
\n\t\t
Web page: New York Times --  Shifting Plates Cause Japan Earthquake and Tsunami 2011<\/a><\/li>\n\t\t
2-minute video --  BBC Footage of Moment Tsunami Hit<\/a><\/li>\n\t\t
Streaming video --  Sky News Aerial Images<\/a><\/li>\n\t\t
Web images:  ABC News -- Before and After Aerial Images<\/a><\/li>\n\t\t
Video --  23 minutes of footage<\/a> -- AGU Blogosphere<\/li>\n\t<\/ul>\n\t<\/li>\n\t
Sumatra Tsunami 2004 -- 250,000 people dead\n\t
\n\t\t
Animation (.gif):  Tsunami Wave Height 300 minutes timelapse<\/a><\/li>\n\t\t
6-minute YouTube video:  Tsunami footage<\/a><\/li>\n\t\t
Quicktime animation:  Tsunami's progress across Indian Ocean<\/a> by Dr. Steven Ward at the Institute of Geophysics and Planetary Physics at the University of California - Santa Cruz.<\/li>\n\t<\/ul>\n\t<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n"},"library":"H5P.AdvancedText 1.1","metadata":{"contentType":"Text","license":"U","title":"Untitled Text"},"subContentId":"ab222a67-ac43-462e-9bf6-87f00bb5f1bb"},"useSeparator":"auto"}]},"library":"H5P.Column 1.18","subContentId":"3f19ef95-c8cd-4a90-9ac3-95f05ac1e73b","metadata":{"contentType":"Column","license":"U","title":"Additional Resources"}}],"behaviour":{"defaultTableOfContents":true,"progressIndicators":true,"progressAuto":true,"displaySummary":false,"baseColor":"#1768c4","enableRetry":true},"read":"Read","displayTOC":"Display 'Table of contents'","hideTOC":"Hide 'Table of contents'","nextPage":"Next page","previousPage":"Previous page","chapterCompleted":"Page completed!","partCompleted":"@pages of @total completed","incompleteChapter":"Incomplete page","navigateToTop":"Navigate to the top","markAsFinished":"I have finished this page","fullscreen":"Fullscreen","exitFullscreen":"Exit fullscreen","bookProgressSubtext":"@count of @total pages","interactionsProgressSubtext":"@count of @total interactions","submitReport":"Submit Report","restartLabel":"Restart","summaryHeader":"Summary","allInteractions":"All interactions","unansweredInteractions":"Unanswered interactions","scoreText":"@score \/ @maxscore","leftOutOfTotalCompleted":"@left of @max interactions completed","noInteractions":"No interactions","score":"Score","summaryAndSubmit":"Summary & submit","noChapterInteractionBoldText":"You have not interacted with any pages.","noChapterInteractionText":"You have to interact with at least one page before you can see the summary.","yourAnswersAreSubmittedForReview":"Your answers are submitted for review!","bookProgress":"Book progress","interactionsProgress":"Interactions progress","totalScoreLabel":"Total score","a11y":{"progress":"Page @page of @total.","menu":"Toggle navigation menu"}}

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